Since 16 October, most Pilgrim Masses have been held at the nearby Church of San Agustín instead of the cathedral. The Botafumeiro is also paused for restoration work, with no return date yet.
For many pilgrims, the Pilgrim Mass and the swing of the Botafumeiro are how the journey ends in Santiago. This autumn both have changed, and we ran into it ourselves when we walked into Santiago. Know before you go, so you aren't caught out on the day you arrive.
The Pilgrim Mass has moved to San Agustín
The cathedral is renovating the area around the main altar, so since 16 October the Pilgrim Mass has been held at the nearby Church of San Agustín, until further notice. The times are the same; only the place has changed:
- 09:30, 12:00, 19:30: Church of San Agustín (Igrexa de San Agustín)
- 07:30: still in the cathedral, now in the Communion Chapel (Capilla de la Comunión)
The church is right next to the Mercado de Abastos food market. From Praza do Obradoiro in front of the cathedral, go through Praza das Praterías and follow Rúa de Xelmírez and Rúa das Ameas, which are wider streets. It's about 500 m, roughly 7 minutes on foot.
When you get there, look up at this 17th-century church: it was designed with two bell towers. The right one was never finished, and the left one was damaged by lightning in 1788. The statue of the Virgin above the main door once stood in a niche in the old city walls.
If you'd like to attend Mass in English, it's held every day at 10:30 in the chapel of the Pilgrim's Office (except Wednesdays).
The Botafumeiro is on pause
The Botafumeiro hasn't swung since late August. It isn't broken: the dome above the cathedral's crossing is being restored, and the scaffolding covers the mechanism it hangs from. The cathedral is using the time to service the mechanism and the rope, and hasn't announced when it will be back.
It normally takes eight people pulling the rope together to get it swinging, up to about 21 m high at around 68 km/h. On days without a ceremony, it's actually kept in the cathedral library.
If you're especially hoping to see the Botafumeiro, check the cathedral's website for the latest before you go.
The cathedral is still open
The cathedral stays open to visitors during the works, every day from 07:00 to 21:00. Backpacks aren't allowed inside, so leave yours at your accommodation or a luggage storage first.
Watch out for outdated information
Some websites still say the Mass is held at the Church of San Francisco. That arrangement dates from the 2019 renovation and no longer applies. For the latest Mass times and Botafumeiro status, check the liturgy page on the cathedral's website.
On 31 December the cathedral will open its Holy Door, marking the start of the 2027 Holy Year. We'll keep sharing the latest news.
Buen Camino!
The CaminoGO team